Oscar Care

Oscar photo from Flickr Creative Commons, user daniella vereeken
Common names: Oscar, Oscar Cichlid, Tiger Oscar


Scientific Name: Astronotus ocellatus

Origin: Amazon River

Life-span: over 20 years

Temperature:  74° to 83°F  (23 to 30°C)

Food: Flake food, bloodworms, tubifex, brine shrimp, frozen foods, cichlid pellets.  Some say feeder goldfish, however I don't recommend this because they don't offer enough nutrition to offset the risk of introducing disease into your aquarium.

Care: Oscars can grow over a foot long and so it is recommended that you give them at least 30 gallons of water.  They will rearrange the gravel and decorations in an aquarium so it is best to use larger, heavier decorations.  They enjoy places to hide so keep this in mind when setting up your aquarium.  These fish are territorial and aggressive so they do best alone or with other oscars.  Some people have successfully kept Oscars with other species, however this can change without notice and all of a sudden the Oscar can attack and kill other fish without giving any prior warning signs.
Oscar photo from Flickr Creative Commons, user daniella vereeken

Weekly water changes are necessary, as they are for all aquariums.  They are messier fish than others so a siphon cleaner will help you greatly.  Monitor the temperature of your aquarium to keep your fish healthy.

Sexing: Very difficult if not impossible.  The easiest way is to get a group of them and let them pair off by themselves.

Breeding:  These fish can lay up to 1000 eggs, so don't try to breed them unless you have a plan of action for raising all the fish and have somewhere for them to go!  However, sometimes if you have a group of them, it just happens.

To condition your Oscars for breeding, start by doing more frequent water changes.  This stimulates them by making them think it's the rainy season.  Also, vary their food.  Provide them with a flat horizontal surface to lay eggs on.  Flat rocks, including slate, work great.  The Oscars will clean it with their mouths prior to laying and fertilizing the eggs.


Oscars will begin a breeding ritual which includes lip-locking.  To a novice this will appear that they are fighting.  They also chase each other in circles around the tank, taking nips at each others fins.  They will quit eating and within a couple days they will lay and fertilize their eggs.


The eggs will hatch within two or three days.  During this time the parents will guard the eggs and the area around it from other fish.  Beware, however, that plecos sometimes will eat the eggs while Oscars are "sleeping".  When it's dark, the nocturnal plecos can sneak in and devour the eggs.  It's best not to have a pleco in the tank if you want the eggs to survive.  Also, if the eggs turn white, it means they were not fertilized.


When the eggs hatch the fry will stay on the surface for a while.  They have a heavy yolk sack on their abdomen that makes it difficult for them to move.  They will not eat until they use up the yolk sac.  Once they begin swimming, newly hatched brine shrimp make a great food for the fry.


The parents and other tank-mates may eat the fry.  If you want to prevent this, remove the object that the eggs are laid on and put it in a separate tank.  Make sure that there is moving water, whether it be from an aerator or a filter, otherwise the eggs will mold and/or grow fungus.


Good luck!  Please feel free to add your own experiences in the comments below!

Molly Care, Caring for Mollies (Aquarium Fish)

Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops


Origin: Central America

Life-span: 4-5 years

Temperature:  70° to 82°F  (21 to 28°C)

Food: Flake food, bloodworms, tubifex, brine shrimp, algae wafers, frozen foods

Care: The molly grows up to four inches and is a great fish for beginners.  They are fairly easy to keep.  Mollies are a peaceful community fish and enjoy a planted aquarium.  They enjoy water with a little salt and it is recommended to add a teaspoon of salt for every 5 gallons of aquarium water (unless other fish in the aquarium can't handle it).

Sexing: Like guppies, mollies are livebearers and the males have a gonopodium and a larger dorsal fin.  Pregnant females have a darker spot near the anal fin called the gravid spot.

Breeding:  Put two or three females with a male.  The molly is a livebearer and will have live babies, and they will not lay eggs.  They can have up to 40 babies.  Provide hiding spots for the baby fish otherwise the parents will eat the babies (fry).  It's a good idea to separate the parents from the fry after birth.

Clown Loach Care

Clown Loaches photo courtesy of Flickr Creative Commons user lindsay sorensen
Scientific Name: Chromobotia macracanthus

Origin: Indonesia, Borneo

Life-span: over 20 years

Temperature:  77° to 83°F  (22 to 30°C)

Food: Flake food, bloodworms, tubifex, brine shrimp, algae wafers, frozen foods, vegetables  like cucumber, zucchini, and peas

Care:  Clown loaches like aquariums with live plants, driftwood, and rocks.  They like to hide but also swim out in the open.  Many people have a single clown loach in their aquarium, but the clown loach is actually a schooling fish and should be kept in groups of at least three.  A major bonus of having a clown loach is that they eat snails!  If you buy live plants you may inherit a snail problem and the clown loach is a great remedy.

The clown loach can get quite large, 12-13 inches.  Don't be fooled by the size they are sold at in pet stores.  Keep this in mind before purchasing a school of clown loaches.  However, despite their gigantic size, they are a very peaceful fish and do great even with small fish like guppies.

One of my clown loaches constantly swims upside down.  It alarmed me at first because I though it was sick, but I've now had them over a year and they are healthy as can be.  It is also said that the clown loach emits a clicking noise, but I've never heard mine make the noise so I can't describe it personally.  (Mine are only about five inches so maybe they aren't big enough!)  If you have any insight on this please feel free to leave a comment!

Sexing: Females are plumper and males are more slender

Jack Dempsey Cichlid Care

Scientific Name: Rocio octofasciata
Origin:  Central America, Honduras, Guatemala

Life-span 5 years

Temperature:  77° to 82°F  (22 to 30°C)

Food: Flake food, bloodworms, tubifex, brine shrimp, guppies, frozen foods.  They are a carnivore so they prefer animal-based food

Care:  Jack Dempsey cichlids are more aggressive than most fish.  They can grow to 10-12 inches long but generally only get around 9 or 10 inches in aquariums.  I would recommend not putting live plants in the aquarium because Jack Dempseys will rearrange the aquarium however they want!  I've commonly had mine pile all of the gravel up to the front of the tank!  They enjoy places to hide and swim in and out of.

Darker gravel will bring out their colors.  If you use light colored gravel the Jack Dempsey will be very light colored and dull.  A minimum of 20 gallons is needed for a Jack Dempsey.  They don't play well with other fish so be careful about mixing species.

Sexing:  Females tend to have more blue on their faces and their spots occur all over their face, while males colored spots generally stop about halfway down their head.  Some say you can tell by the shape of the fins but I have found many exceptions to this rule.

I have two juvenile Jack Dempseys, photos to come soon!

Zebra Danio/Zebrafish Care

Fish Name: zebra danio/zebrafish

Zebra Danio photo courtesy of Flickr Creative Commons User bob_jenkins
Scientific Name: Danio rerio

Origin:  Pakistan, Bangladesh, Nepal, and Myanmar

Life-span 5 year

Temperature: 65 to 78°F

Food: Flake food, bloodworms, tubifex, brine shrimp

Care:  The zebra danio is a schooling fish so get at least three of them (I recommend at least five) so that they can school.  They generally swim in schools around the middle and top of the aquarium.  They breed like crazy and watching them spawn playfully is very entertaining.  However, they eat their eggs.  If you are interested in breeding your zebra danios, put them in a tank of at least five gallons with marbles lining the bottom so that they can't reach the eggs to eat them.  Remove the danios after seeing them spawn or after 24 hours.  As long as you have at least one fertile male and female in the tank, you SHOULD have eggs.  Sexing zebra danios is difficult.  The males are slender and females tend to have a larger belly.

Red Finned Shark/Rainbow Shark/Ruby Shark Care

Rainbow or Red Finned Shark
Red Finned Shark
Fish Name: Red-Finned Shark/ Rainbow Shark/Ruby Shark

Scientific Name: Epalzeorhynchos frenatum

Origin: Thailand and other areas in southeast area

Temperature: 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit

Food: Flake food, algae, bloodworms, tubifex, brine shrimp

Care:  The red finned shark or rainbow shark can grow to 6-7 inches.  It likes a pH of 6.5-7.  They tend to hover around the bottoms scavenging for food with their whiskers.  They enjoy a planted aquarium and swimming under and around rocks, wood and plants.  They are general peaceful but can get aggressive of other rainbow/red-finned sharks.
Sexing these freshwater fish involves looking at their anal fins.  Males have black lines on these fins and tend to be thinner than females.  Breeding is difficult.  They are egg scatterers and will eat their eggs so remove the parents after spawning.

Video of Red Finned Sharks:
 

Neon Tetra Care

Neon Tetra
Fish Name: Neon Tetra

Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi

Origin: Columbia, Peru, Brazil

Temperature: 75-85 degree Fahrenheit

Food:  Brine shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms, tubifex, plant matter, algae, flake food

Care: Neon tetras are mid-level schooling fish so they do best in groups of three or more.  They enjoy a planted aquarium with hiding spots.  Neon tetra can live 5-10 years.  Sexing neon tetras is easier when you have a group of males and females.  Male tetras tend to be slimmer and have a straight blue line.  Females tend to have larger bellies and the blue line is bent due to their larger frame.
Image courtesy of Flickr Creative Commons user Leino88

Image courtesy of Flickr Creative Commons user MotoClub4AG